Thursday, March 28, 2013

spirits notes

Man Drank $102,000 Worth Of Vintage Whiskey
3.22.13
http://pittsburgh.cbslocal.com/2013/03/22/police-man-drank-102000-worth-of-old-whiskey/

GREENSBURG, Pa. (KDKA) – The live-in caretaker of a Greensburg mansion faces criminal charges for allegedly drinking more than $100,000 worth of the owner’s whiskey.
The butler did not do it! Nope! In this case, police have put the finger on a caretaker with a powerful thirst for hundred year old whiskey.
John Saunders, 62, of Irwin, is charged with drinking 52 bottles of very valuable vintage whiskey.
In 1986, Pat Hill purchased a turn-of-the-20th-century mansion on South Broadway in Scottdale.Hill, a New York fashion model who was born in the Pittsburgh area, poured more than three quarters of a million dollars into it, transforming the estate into a luxurious bed and breakfast in the ‘90’s.
Innkeeper Rick Bruckner says that during the renovations a painter made a wild discovery.
“Hidden back in the walls were nine cases of Old Farm Pure Rye Whiskey,” said Bruckner. “The whiskey itself was distilled in spring of 1913 and it was bottled in the fall of 1917.”
Coal baron, J.P. Brennan – the builder of the house – apparently stockpiled the celebrated Old Farm Pure Rye produced at the West Overton Distillery, which was then owned by Henry Clay Frick.
“But they buried it back in the walls and forgot about it,” said Bruckner.
The nine cases, a dozen sealed bottles in each, were stored in John Saunders’ basement apartment. Last year, Hill found that half of the whiskey bottles were empty.
Hill told KDKA-TV by phone that she “is just sick about it.” That when she “asked Saunders what happened,” he answered, “Oh, it must have evaporated.”
Hill took her suspicions to police.
Lab results came in matching Saunders’ DNA with saliva on three of the empty bottles.
The 52 bottles that Saunders allegedly drank we’re appraised at more than $100,000.
Hill told KDKA’s Mary Robb Jackson that he’s known their family for years. They trusted him and that the worst part of this is that he betrayed that trust.
Saunders is scheduled to appear at a preliminary hearing on Wednesday.

= = =

When that "Local", "Craft" liquor you pay big bucks for Is neither : Distilling deceit   
Last winter I visited a small new distillery housed on the ground floor of a Dickensian industrial building in a run-down part of an American city, exactly which city doesn’t matter, because I guarantee there’s a building just like it near you. It was occupied by what my friend Karen Rush has dubbed YUTs, or “young urban tradesmen”: that leather-aproned, sepia-tone breed of ironmongers, tinsmiths, papermakers, and the like who have embraced urban industrial homesteading with the same zeal their parents once brought to rural cheesemaking in the sadder parts of New England.
 
The distillery’s operators, a trio of agreeable, Oliver Twist–ish young men, had just launched a new vodka, which I’d seen in local bars and on liquor-store shelves. But when I looked around, I didn’t see any of the equipment one might expect to find at a vodka distillery, no gleaming column still, or storage bins for grain or potatoes, or even tanks for fermentation.
It’s a little-known fact, but you don’t actually need a still to call yourself a distiller. The vodka makers I visited had adopted a simple and surprisingly common business model: buy a large quantity of potable alcohol from an industrial supplier (one vendor of neutral spirits offers it “in drum, truckload and railcar quantities”), run it through a tall charcoal filter to remove any trace impurities, cut it with water, decant it into bottles, and then slap on a label touting it as a local craft product worthy of its premium price.
 
For the time being, the craft-distilling movement is basking in the summery sunshine of congeniality: it’s still young, and rising tides are lifting all boats. Eighty-one craft distillers launched last year in the U.S., bringing the total to 315, according to a white paper by Michael Kinstlick, a co-founder of Coppersea Distilling, a new operation in upstate New York.
The movement is following the same upward trajectory that microbrewing blazed some two decades ago, and Kinstlick foresees more than 1,000 small distillers nationwide by 2021. But already some markets are getting crowded. Brooklyn alone is home to at least 10 distillers. A debate is commencing over what constitutes “craft” and what constitutes “local".
 
“Grain to glass” distillers grow their own grain and do their own distilling, blending, aging, and bottling. That’s an expensive way to make a bottle of liquor, and the product is priced accordingly. So, understandably, they get a bit grumpy when competitors buy alcohol by the railcar and then repackage it as a “vodka handcrafted in Brooklyn” or a “Texas blended whiskey".
“The next phase of the market is going to be distinguishing the makers from the fakers”, Kinstlick predicts.
You might think federal regulations protect consumers from these sorts of misleading claims on labels. But you’d be wrong. Yes, the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau is particular about many things that appear on a liquor label, for example, the alcohol percentage, the category of spirit, and the font size used in the mandatory warnings about drinking while pregnant.
But once you meet those requirements, “you can tell whatever story you want,” observes Nicole Austin, the distiller at Kings County Distillery in Brooklyn, which makes whiskey from New York corn.
Austin doesn’t think increased federal oversight would necessarily help. “Any regulation you come up with will be instantly outdated,” she says. Instead, she’s counting on better consumer education to clarify what’s truly local and craft-produced.
“I want people to understand why my product costs what it does and why it’s special,” she explains.
But consumer education is complicated when it comes to spirits, partly because the “craft” in question depends on what you’re making. With gin, for instance, the craft resides in the choice of botanicals and methods used to infuse flavors. For makers of blended whiskey, the art is in the blending of multiple whiskeys.
 
Some people argue that when it comes to vodka, the true craftsmen are the marketers, not the producers.
That’s a lot to sort out when you’re walking through the liquor store. But Austin says she sees signs that consumers are gradually educating themselves about what they’re paying for, just as foodies do when it comes to artisanal local foods.
“People want to know not just what you produce, but how you’re producing it,” she says. “They’re going to look under the hood. And if you can’t back up what you’re saying, you won’t keep that customer”.

Top-shelf scheme: Authorities raid 29 bars for selling cheap liquor as premium products
5.22.13 Christopher Baxter/The Star-Ledger    
http://www.nj.com/news/index.ssf/2013/05/top-shelf_scheme_authorities_r.html
http://www.nj.com/news/index.ssf/2013/05/operation_swill_nj_officials_c.html
http://news.yahoo.com/nj-caramel-colored-rubbing-alcohol-sold-scotch-200102116.html

 State authorities this morning raided 29 bars and restaurants across New Jersey on suspicion that they have been re-filling empty bottles of their most expensive liquors with cheaper alcohol.
Brian Hertenstein, general manager of Blackthorn Irish Pub in Parsippany. "I’m confident that it’ll come back and it’ll be proven we were pouring what’s on the label."
Dan Arroyo, a manager at the pub, said three men and one woman arrived Wednesday morning, inspecting bottles and opening up liquor cabinets.
Dubbed "Operation Swill," the year-long investigation found the establishments fooled customers so they could charge higher prices and bolster their profits, according to a statement released by the state Division of Alcoholic Beverage Control.

The investigation began as a result of complaints, confidential informants and new technology that allowed detectives to test liquor they bought at the bars, officials said.
Operation Swill started after the state began receiving more complaints than usual about possibly mislabeled drinks, said the director of the Division of Alcoholic Beverage Control, Michael Halfacre. An informant with knowledge of the industry contacted the agency in the fall to help in the investigation, he said.

In January and February, investigators went to 63 establishments they suspected were scamming liquor customers. They ordered drinks neat, without ice or mixers, then covertly took samples for testing. As part of Operation Swill, investigators collected 1,000 open bottles of vodka, gin, rum, scotch, whiskey and tequila from the wells of the bars, state Attorney General Jeffrey Chiesa said.
Of 150 samples collected, 30 were not the brand as which they were being sold. At one bar, a mixture that included rubbing alcohol and caramel coloring was sold as scotch. In another, premium liquor bottles were refilled with water, apparently not even clean water.
= = =

http://news.yahoo.com/girlfriend-drunk-help-090000910.html
Dear Starshine,
5.31.13
I've been with my girlfriend for four years. She has a drinking problem. Over the years, she has reduced her alcohol intake. But lately she's drinking more. I drink two or three times a year. We fight a lot about alcohol because when she drinks, she gets aggressive, and I've become increasingly impatient about these drunken confrontations. I asked her to stop drinking around me for awhile so we could get along better. She grudgingly agreed, adding a smart-ass quip about how "we might not see each other that much if I can't drink around you." I got invited to a friend's wedding and asked her to join me, reminding her of our deal — but she argued that she can drink if she wants to. I said that if she can't spend one day with me and not drink, I don't want to continue the relationship. She said I shouldn't be so controlling. Am I being unreasonable or unfair? What should I do? I really want her to be more responsible, and show me that she is in control of herself (so that I can propose and start a dang family already!), but she seems to still want to party.

response:
I don't like to label anyone an alcoholic. After all, I've been craving a pomegranate martini since I read the words "wedding" and "drink" above, so that would really be the pot calling the Ketel One. But we both know how this goes: Your girl loves another. And you absolutely can't propose to her or impregnate her or expect her to be anything other than a stubborn sponge until she personally decides to forsake her nefarious liquid lover. Do you know why you told her that if she can't drink around you, you don't want to continue dating? Because it's true. You. Don't. Want. That. And I don't want it for you. In fact, what I want for you is the same thing you want of her: I want you to be more responsible and show me that you're in control of yourself. Let her know that you're not into threesomes, then go find a girl who finds you entirely intoxicating.
Now if you'll excuse me, I have a martini to shake.
= = =

Saturday, February 23, 2013

alembic HTML character designated by Unicode numeric reference

the "alembic" HTML numeric character reference & # 2697 ;


"HTML characters may (be) written as numeric character references based on the character's Unicode code"
(per http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unicode)


 pasted Unicode symbol 
"The alembic symbol is Unicode U+2697 ALEMBIC (⚗)."
( per http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alembic)

§
"subsection" (doubled S) text character as an HTML character is & # 167 ;

Tuesday, January 29, 2013

SoCal Whiskey Club inaugural 130127

my new liquor snob joke ( made it myself ) ~
you know you're an overpaid drunk when ... you'll only drink from a Glencairn glass.

And such was my sad fate aforenight. If I'd known it meant drinking ancient bourbon in Little Tokyo with adorable asian ingenues, I'd have become a semi-professional alcoholic much sooner in life.
So began the Southern California Whiskey Society Sunday circa Jan. 2013. 11 bourbons, new vs old side by side shoot out, 4 tax stamps ( pre 1984 ) with one faux, a 100% Stitzel Weller distilled line up plus the latest Pappy van Winkle 20yr, itself a blend and the only match up where the new trumped the old.

SW juice, for the uninitiated, is a product the factory for which closed for good in 1992, two long decades past.
Hence, it's a spirit to be imbibed nevermore when extant troves are exhausted, and exhaust was fitting flavor profile for much of the newer versions of the labels compared. Exceptions were Rebel Yell and aforementioned PvW20, a nice surprise that so sought after a brand, priced exorbitantly to match, has risen despite loss of legacy.

That bright prospect speaks well and volumes of the rapid increase in standards held by ever more discerning bibblers moderne.
Re the attending contingent, for once I was silent, rather than my usual yammer, for I was among luminaries and professional spirits merchants on all sides, whose opine was a font of wisdom slaking my eager ear.
E.g. Mme MT re the prodigious vanilla component in the new PvW20 edition, an obvious prominent note I'd missed altogether in assessing other criteria.

And the star atop the yule tree was the ever illuminating master CU, the paler one with the honeyed drawl, not the tocayo squire of MT & L, which gallant honor drove my dark heart to envious fury despite the sincere regard those damsels directed my way.

For readers seeking manna gleaned from newly minted members' remains, cf. http://www.facebook.com/events/390174201076901.
Do bring your own water, as well as supplemental glassware, as the house tap is a tad oystery.
To host Far East, kudos for a job well done with great flexibility, and a bar shelf nonpareil meriting many more visits. Its peruse intimated delectable mysteries yet unknown to me, inciting tantalizing anticipation. E.g. Widow Jane !?*

= = =


Is this at 7G SD yet ? http://www.harrisonbourbon.com/governors_reserve.html

Spotted it's plain younger sister at the de facto home court of the SCWC http://www.southerncaliforniawhiskeyclub.com/ Sunday 4.14.13 while there for the 7 expression Sazerac 18 vertical, a test of the new norm for holding back the tide of time against overaged bourbon via the figleaf of steel tanks as justifying the arrest of increased age statement for copious quantities of remaining reserves.

Bottom line, 2006 Sz18 is the "same" as 2012 Sz18 despite being transferred from oak barrel to single mega tank to multiple modest tanks (post 2007 release), each annum losing more than 1% of the original volume to angel's share regardless of tanked stockpile.
... I won't be buying a single dram of it after sampling the septet presented. Consensus of those attending favored the 2002 expression.

Instead of the Harrison, I launched my evening dance card with Widow Jane, spotted at the prior SCWC soiree and in no need of reprise.

I challenge BW & crew to secure a specimen of the following prior to ( or in tandem with, if need be ) 7G LA doing so : http://www.harrisonbourbon.com/grouseland.html
I promise to pay for one pour in support of that goal.

cf re Sazerac 18

7.10.08 http://www.whiskyadvocateblog.com/2008/01/10/inside-scoop-sazerac-rye-18-year-old/

10.18.12 follow up http://www.thirstysouth.com/2012/10/18/review-2012-sazerac-18-rye/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sazerac

= = =

Off the Rocks ~ NorCal outfit dipping their toe here in Tijuas norte 4.17.13.
Clamor louder for a foot to be brought down to stay.
http://offtherockswhisky.com/events-whiskyexperience/

I was several days late in reading the K&L Wine Whisk(e)y News email,
but I had 30 or 40 minutes to kill before going back to work after lunch, so I opened it.
And saw they were dropping eleven different bottles of high grade in Little Tokyo that night.
I had already honed my transit process to the area with two previous Southern California Whiskey Club forays to Far Bar a block further on 1st St, so I knew I could pull it off.

So it began. At noon, I learned of the event. By 12:20pm, I had confirmation emails for event admission and train ticket. At 12:50, I told my boss face to face I wouldn't be coming back to work that afternoon. By 1:30pm, I was fully groomed for polite company. I made the 2:46pm train north to Union Station with a quarter hour to spare which I passed discussing gin with a fellow passenger.
I disembarked approx. 20 minutes before the event start and arrived with minutes to spare, greeted  effusively at the door by one of the OTR duo who immediately knew of my order when I cursorily mumbled that I'd purchase online at noon.
Charmed doesn't begin to describe the fortuitous glory of WE 130417, the first OTR event in SoCal.
 Mention is merited by the unceasing and unstinting gourmand fusion nibbles of a half dozen stripes by host location Spice Table, all first rate & novel in composition.


OTR presentations

Bruichladdich 1984 Golder Still ( 2008 release ) 23yr
{ definitely best of the night,  but

I got in trouble because, without permission or even asking for such,
I opened the sealed bottle for a light pour when
two Men in matching Black suits egged me on to do so

as I fondled it trying to read the label's gold foil lettering on gold matte background.

Binny's $300 http://www.binnys.com/spirits/Bruichladdich_Golder_Still_160690.html
orig. $150 K&L http://www.klwines.com/detail.asp?sku=1095779 }
http://www.bruichladdich.com/the-whisky/classic-whisky/rare-bruichladdich/golder-still-whisky

Compass Box Peat Monster
{ peat = yuck }
http://www.compassboxwhisky.com/the-peat-monster.php


JVS Imports (C.Uhde) presentations
Blackadder raw cask Blairfindy (Glenfarclass) 23yr
{ second best of the night, light peat and good big caramel/butterscotch/vanilla/dried fruit flavor; trying to get a bottle from impresario at two bills plus }
http://www.blackadder.nu/newidx.php?page=productbf&site=INT

Blackadder Raw Cask Smoking Islay
 http://www.blackadder.nu/newidx.php?page=productsi&site=INT
Kilchoman Machir Bay
Kilchoman Single Bourbon Cask
Kilchoman 100% Islay 2nd Edition

brand representative presentations
Glenmorangie Original
 { used as primary element in Blood and Sand cocktails incl Cherry Heering, very scrumptious }
Glenmorangie Extremely Rare 18 Years Old
 { msrp $130 }
Ardbeg Corryvreckan
 { 100+ ppm. The horror of it all }
Glenmorangie Quarter Century
{ third best of the night. msrp $325 }


= = =

130425 http://www.southerncaliforniawhiskeyclub.com/#!events/c24tf
David Stirk, Creative Whisky Company
http://www.creativewhisky.co.uk/

'00, Aberlour 12 year, 55.7%
'00, Ardmore 12 year, 56.3%
'97, Clynelish 15 year, 53.5%
'95, Mortlach 17 year, 53.3%
'92, Glen Grant 20 year, 55.7%
'88, Littlemill 24 year, 49.8%
'01, Bowmore 11 Year, 53.6%

Wednesday, August 29, 2012

crawl log chrono

13.04.27 comprehensive wine list
easy, safe way to get around to wine tastings
http://www.SDbeerwine.com

prioritized in order of tasting events.
http://www.sandiegowineandculinary.com/
http://www.the3rdcorner.com/
http://villagevino.com/
http://shop.vintagewinessd.com
http://proprietorsreserve.com/
http://sandiegowineclassic.com/
http://winesellar.com/
http://www.holidaywinecellar.com/
http://sandiegowine.net/     no-nonsense in-store Saturday wine tastings
http://www.bineandvine.com/   no tasting license yet but worth keeping abreast of.
http://knbwinecellars.com/events/   bit of a zoo scene - very popular. They do a wide hodge podge of events, and are the new high end liquor store in town with something to prove via their tastings.

some big local wine events in my order of preference
http://familywinemakers.org/ 2012 second weekend in March
http://www.julianca.com/media/grape_stomp.htm Labor Day Saturday
http://www.sdfair.com/index.php?fuseaction=festivals.wine_festival

Julian in order of preference
http://thebluedoorwinery.com/
http://www.witchcreekwinery.com/julian-location
http://jenkinswinery.com/
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Menghini-Winery/334699435773

essential stops on the way back down the mountain
http://jeremysonthehill.com/    Wynola
http://www.countrycellars.com/    Wynola
http://www.orfila.com/tasting-julian.html    Wynola

http://milagrofarmwinery.com     north of Ramona on main highway across from camel dairy
http://turtlerockridge.com    Ramona on the old highway road
http://www.yelp.com/biz/southern-california-wine-company-Ramona    north end downtown Ramona on the highway

Ramona AVA & greater SD.
http://www.ramonavalleyvineyards.org/
http://sandiegowinecountry.wordpress.com/

in general order of preference
http://www.christophersoncongress.com/    possibly the best wine bar in San Diego
http://cafeparissandiego.wordpress.com/
http://www.farmhousecafesd.com
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bon-Vin/259064214131582
http://mosaicwinebar.com/
http://www.sandiego.andaz.hyatt.com/en/hotel/dining/AndazWineBar.html
http://www.cohnrestaurants.com/menu-restaurants/100-wines-hillcrest/
http://www.sognodivinosd.com
http://www.thewineencounter.com/
http://www.wetstonewinebar.com/
http://www.bacchuswinemarket.com/
http://www.sdwinery.com
http://www.winestealssd.com/our-locations/point-loma-location
http://fiftysevendegrees.com/
http://www.counterpointsd.com

notes on Valle de Guadalupe Baja wine trail.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B-vBl80sm4Q4WUlLc0Y5R190Zmc&usp=sharing
With a native speaker at the wheel of his vehicle, start at the south end as far as you plan to go and work your way back north. The Bibayoff winery is an essential midpoint stop.
http://www.bibayoff.net
Closest Mexican winery I know, Cava Garcia, still no small safari.
http://www.descubrebajacalifornia.com/2012/index.php/vinedos-y-vinicolas/item/cava-garcia

Possibly the most obscure wine event in San Diego, fundamentally a charity fundraiser.
http://www.barriologanwinery.com/grape-stomp.html

= = =

12.8.29 Uni Ave

A bad idea to blog on first blush still dizzy from delights but merit must not be denied, so, while the iron is hot, heretowith

100 Wines 1047
Superb yet delicate, nonetheless fiery & lengthy finishing Cerbos Armagnac VSOP at a quite favorable price. Second tier brand Blandys bual malmsey yet untried. Dios Baco olorosso shaming all the treacle drunk by that Jerez designation of late. Grenache Noir banyuls - agreeably tawny ruby port, astoundingly uncommon inky banyuls. Drink this quick before you never see it again. And the pour of each was obscenely generous so the price is delicious.
http://www.cohnrestaurants.com/menu-restaurants/100-wines-hillcrest/

Il Postino 3955 30th
It is painfully difficult to stop bouncing off the ceiling when I see a shelf like this. The bottle list is gargantuan. By the glass provides more than one interest. But the ports are possibly the finest I have seen yet anywhere as a group. The most compelling are not cheap. Their pour is the price of the finest scotch or brandy. Screwing up the courage of my wallet has yet to match my boundless palate.
Two curiously labeled scotches were pique of interest that just escaped drawing blood. Praise Dionysis for a wingman with yellow-card prudence stronger than my own. The scurrilous cur at least could have propositioned the barkeep for a small flight of the pair if his wits so outmatched mine.
Like Lion's Share, a rare venue demanding reprise for sake of the fare.
http://ilpostino-sandiego.com/

~ ~ ~
121211 jibe to the wingman

Couldn't wait for you. Saw in this past week's UT
http://www.utsandiego.com/news/2012/dec/06/tom-hams-lighthouse-to-get-35-million-facelift/
 that Tom Ham's Lighthouse (north end of Harbor Island, opposite end from Island Prime) is closing for name changing renovation at the first of the year, so I went there tonight to give them their 45 second survey.
The bartenderess of 30 yrs at that location was spread thin tending all the tables sent upstairs to the bar because the dining room downstairs was taken with some corp. Xmas party. I ate the signature sea bass & vegetables steamed in brown paper and a glass of '08 CabSav, then a dark rum I've never seen, http://rumandreviews.com/2011/12/01/brugal-1888-panel-review/
prior to sniper targeting the obscured labels on the back of the top shelf.
End result, I caught her unawares and she quoted me the $10 price for Hennessey VSOP when I asked for the XO in a leafy vine & grape cluster embossed bottle, priced $39 according to the dessert menu.
She recognized her error after already pouring the last of the bottle, but honored her initial quote.

~ ~ ~

1.15.13 So many stops uncited that it is difficult to even recall high points since last post.

Urban Solace 12.29.12  30th Ave, south of University
 ~ Smooth Ambler independent bottling of legacy sourced bourbon. 100pf absolutely required ice. 6yr still plenty good quality. Tried to find bottle : BevMo La Mesa sold out, no shelf listing BM Pt Loma & Mission Valley, scored last bottle of discontinued Brugal 1888 sherry finished rum at BM Mission Valley. 6yr Smooth Ambler at Wine Time in La Jolla for $50,
Need to see if 7G has an older iteration of this brand.
13.02.26 update ~ Two fifths of last bottle remaining at USolace : Batch #4 dated 2.4.12 "Sarah". Same day, received home delivery of same product from Astor (NYC), Batch #17 12.6.12 "NiK", 13 addtional batches of 6yr from a negociant label in 10 months.
When a broker can put this volume into the supply chain in that period, the hyped "whiskey drought" au currant looks suspiciously manufactured rather than a result of snowballing demand.

Marine Room 1.13.13 La Jolla
 w/ Z distaff crew less one & Julian duchess.
 ~ Rare Wine Co. New York Malmsey Special Reserve $11 2 oz + pour, Great bargain, http://www.rarewineco.com/html/rwc-hist.htm
Also on shelf, but unsampled, Sandeman Royal Ambrosante 20yr PX $14 pour http://www.rarewineco.com/html/rwc-hist.htm
 ~ 2010 Santa Barbara Highlands Vineyards "Nadia" cabsav
Pricey at $16 for 5 to 6 oz pour, but quality is equal to the cost. Much better half hour of air after pouring, 
 ~ 2010 Pierre Henry Gadais muscadet (Loire).  Bargain $10 pour.
I am no particular fan of whites, let alone "mineraly" ones, often flavor profile code, as in the case of every marsanne I ever tried, for flavorless. But I give big props to the MRoom's madame sommelier for her bravery in putting a young, presumably unaged muscadet on the too short by-the-glass menu. At least as broad in flavor as a decent muscat, but not at all cloyingly syrupy, the wild grape aromatic funk I expect from a muscadet is fully present without being overwhelming as can too often be the case with this varietal. As a starter glass at this venue, this choice is automatic.
~ 2009 Bon Niche "Fenetres" Petit Verdot (Paso Robles) $59. Not one I'll buy again. Am alway eager to see what can be done with this varietal as a stand alone, but it would have needed 4 hours of decanting to see if there was hidden treasure in this otherwise acceptable but not especially notable curiousity. At least it wasn't one of the many three figure priced bottles on the list.

 ~ The food, as ever each time I've eaten here, is distinguishably superior, regardless of the dish. After this visit, I can opt for the MRoom with complete confidence that dining here is guaranteed to be a great choice. Just be sure to make a reservation early enough to catch the view before & during sunset. After dark, the location's greatest asset is lost.
The details of preparation on all the menu items are also so meticulously elaborate that Net research & review aforehand of their oblique gastronomic description makes their appreciation decidely greater.

Bobeau Kitchen 1.5.13 Ocean Beach
 w/ full Z distaff crew incl international diva, Julian duchess, and both grand-spawn.
 ~ Vin doux menu a noteworthy effort. Good tawny port, don't recall the brand, affordably priced. Decent sauterne, also affordably priced. By the glass wines lackluster or worse, depending on price. Cofermented three grape red blend a good bargain, but, as always, order it early and air it out to get the best from it.
 ~ Food better than expected.
 ~ Still prefer the bar across the street at 3rd Corner, but they were out of the St. Aubins armagnac that was so revelatory a discovery last (first) time there that I bought a bottle for my own shelf. The calvados was only spirit of interest, a label I didn't recognize across a crowded bar rail. It was a little harsh but still appreciable quality & fair price. Kept the diva in tow quiet with a pour of Whiskers Blake 8yr Australian tawny port. Given the great price on this stalwart product, I can't understand why it isn't on every bar in town instead of a very few.
 ~Need to dine here to test the kitchen.

Lupi Vino Cucina 12.31.12 Bird Rock w/ LM & RP
No real reason to go back here. The wine on the list I wanted was unavailable. Prices quite affordable so a good venue for cost containing a second or third stop of the day in La Jolla. Warm pear compote very tasty but not especially exotic in its prep.
The find here, like Bobeau, is the insane hidden treasure across the street, Maitre D. The owner said they've been there 31 years, but I never heard of it, nor any lifelong local to whom I've mentioned it. #1 priority on my must dine list. Much too upscale to give it the 45 second peruse for liquor shelf pre-qualification I typically apply to unknown places. Abalone "sauteed amandine" both as $30 hor d' oeuvre & $65 entree vs. $80 Fish Market Seaport Village http://www.maitredlj.com/Menu.htm

Westgate Hotel Fountainbleu 12.25.12 w/ LM & RP
Mercifully, they still served the Xmas eve prix fixe, a gloriously good five course.
Two good dessert wines and a 2yr aged Zin & PS three or four varietal red blend by the bottle.
Bar was not open for lunch, available after 5pm. Must revisit to survey liquor shelf.

Village Vino 12.12.12 Kensington
A no-nonsense proprietress with a ferocious list, incl a 15yr old tawny by the glass. Flatbread & epicure finger food of high caliber. Split a bottle of nebbiolo with a late arriving regular for my third glass who riffed graciously & engagingly on my usual bullshit rap. Always amazing to me how my sincere and enthusiastic engagement of fellow customers elicits a pursed grimace & scowl in short order from tavern keepers, regardless of whether I stay on topic with libation discussion or try to match my eccentric obsessions to their interests.
VV definitely deserves to be a default waystop on my regular rounds, particularly with Bleu Boheme & the newly opened liquor store wine tasting room a very short stroll across the street.

Baypark Fish 12.8.12 just off Morena Blvd beside I-5
Fair priced good quality food. Limited tolerable wine list, but make the effort to air out the reds early because dining here is too quick paced for the decanting necessary.
 ~ Started at the bar on the corner with an acceptable Ramos Pinto port RP10. Had to scream bloody murder at the bartender to get him to stop overpouring the horrible house labeled grappa which was attributed to Jacobo Poli and distributed by Mondavi.
 ~ Swung by Old Trieste afterward for a fast assessment. Scary sepulchral lighting and weird sad vibe, but did make a highly notable booze find of so far unattainable armagnac http://www.empirewine.com/liquor/castarede-armagnac-vsop-10yr-750ml/

Baci's 11.30.12 Morena Blvd beside I-5
Not inexpensive at all but astoundingly good food. Best of all, we killed a bottle of fantastic baked cream sherry, no longer commercially available, that had been on the shelf for 10 years per the proprietor : Rotta Winery (Templeton, Paso Robles) "tawny port" (mission grape varietal)

57 Degrees 11.8.12 Washington west of I-5
Bleak & all but empty at Happy Hour on Thu. Acceptable but unnoteworthy pricey food, young wine, tame overpriced dessert wines from safe label names. The draw here is serious tipplers schooling themselves by the glass for their bottle purchases. If they'll talk to you, take notes.

SD Culinary Institute 11.1.12 along the trolley track west from 5th St downtown SD
Gitana sherry tasting with paired amuse bouches by a New Mexico big name chef doing a hurried delivery. Learned a fair amount but overpriced at $65 for shoehorned seating and rushed presentation for a bare bones, second tier, commercially common product line hawked by the distributor. 1) Manzanilla aka fino is nothing but brined white wine 2) Amontillado is customarily very dry 3) Olorosso is preferable to overly syrupy, more expensive PX 4) cream sherry is olorosso base with PX blended in.

Small Bar 10.30.12 Park Ave
Pricey burgers not worth a repeat. Prefer to eat across the street at Park Blvd Wine & Pizza, straightforward flatbread with upscale ingredients. Parker's Heritage by the shot, $20+ as I recall, but an early limited edition you will never see again in your life. Oodles of long aged scotches, several uncommon independent bottlings, some effort at a notable bourbon selection. The key here is that the best of the liquor is essentially the choice of the proprietor, not some bar manager stocking what his wholesaler tells him is best for his customer base.

Italianissimo Trattoria 10.23.12 downtown Chula Vista
One of the very few upscale places in CV. I have always found the food to be enough of a cut above in quality to justify the price, but the wing man thought the ciopinno was inferior. A limited wine list with some priced by the label as much as the bottle contents, but one or more dessert wines of mild note.

Sunday, August 12, 2012

7G Tasting Society inaugural

They were giving away free high grade whiskey last night at one of the classiest new places located in one of the hipper districts of SD. A dozen seats out of forty principals & their +1s were empty. More elbow room for me.
Now the bad news.

The event was fronted by a cowboy casual clad Diageo rep who showed no shame when I asked him to confirm his employer. I don't expect strangers in neutral social encounters to exhibit a conscience of social justice. Experience has proven that sanctimonious standard to be counterproductive on my part. He did bring the booze I drank at no charge.

Diageo aka Coca Cola doubtless will point to such self aggrandizing astroturfing as this. But plenty of us remember the resource grabs and murderous power plays that make their paychecks & dividends blood money. E.g. Malvern  & Colombia. Ibid

"after the disastrous year of 1982 severely crippled the whisky industry, {Diageo nee} DCL would close Glenlochy one more time and this time it would not reopen. May of 1983 was the final date of production and in 1986 the distillery was scheduled for demolition, before that decision was appealed by the Lochaber District Council. Eventually, most of the main infrastructure would be removed and converted into a hotel, on the condition that no distillation would ever take place there again (a typical Diageo deal)."                        per DD 8.26.12
 

D/CC isn't, in any fashion, Bruichladdichesque artisans furthering the peaks of spirits craftmanship in league with sustainable locally focused culture. That firm is the JPMorgan among too big to fail/jail cartel elite of the international beverage industry, largest among behemoths, swing trading distilleries like 2006 credit default swaps.

The proof this is a bad thing is in the proffered quaffs, 7 items, priced regionally in this table,
 begun with

 ~ Oban 14, much better than I remembered it from the last time I ordered it experimentally at some empty hotel fern bar. It rates a check plus, meaning one bottle belongs on your liquor shelf. Medium light peat, thankfully, plenty butterscotch and mild honey when given time to bloom in the glass and on the tongue. Still overpriced consequent to Scotch chic and brand price gouging.

But there is a rare fond spot in my heart for fair Oban as one of those that got away. It isn't a small  place, and I had only a brief hour there before the Craignure ferry left dock during my sole foray to thistledom and moss drenched Mull thickets.
Jim McEwan makes a rational defense that turning an honest buck from peated barley ain't cheap or easy.

 ~ Oban 18 was appreciably superior to the younger sibling with a notably prolonged finish. It is two star, meaning you should have a bottle to sample and another in reserve. Noting the $5 per additional year, bite the bullet & buy since those Costa Mesa samaritans can't hold the line on price forever despite their longstanding yeomanry in doing such, upon which I have oft relied.

 ~ Oban DE. Approx. an additional year in sherry cask. More smoke, more spice, Not good things, surprisingly for this preferred finish. Note that the sherry is a fino. Delicate refinement of an old heavy scotch makes no more sense than a razor edge on a battle ax. It will only be chipped & spoiled by the first skull it splits. If you're beyond flush, one of these bottles is acceptable completion of the entire expressions' collection, but many better squanders of that C-note are in my wish list.

A wisely anticpated product sequence schedule then went pear shaped as they say in Avon.

Throughout, presenter E. shared many useful kernels of knowledge I greatly appreciated as an aficionado. He provided both standard and peat smoked barley grains for comparative background. Consensus was the first had Grapenuts flavor. To me, the second was dubiously redolent of bacon.
Other tidbits included Oban's long 100 hour ferment compared to a 40 hour industry standard, characterizing the longer as yielding "grassy notes" ( One of many common flavor profile descriptives I've never distinguished ) and the shorter as nutty.

He repeatedly cited the distinction in volume between American standard cooperage and the two larger standards used for sherry. He brandished a barrel lid exhibiting the four common grades of char. He distinguished U.S. oak as "white", French as "red", yielding taste elements of vanilla & dry fruit respectively. He attributed sweetness as the prime taste contribution of wood.
Re the heathen but necessary practice of adding water to liquor, he asserted it the equivalent of allowing wine to breathe.

He revealed the shibboleth of holding spirit on the tongue a second for each year of age.
My preference is minimum 120 seconds per, doubtless my dour & thrifty Calvinist heritage begrudging loss of flavor to my undeserving and unappreciative throat, but nevertheless confident in a full measure of redemption by fumes' reflux to my nose.

Of terroir, he cited Islay in SE Scotland as characterized by peat flavor, to Skye attributing smoky style.
And so he blithely benedicted attendees to a wretched demise via the "dark side" (his phrasing)., more ominous than the stygian fuel blocks of peat he'd laid on the table in doomladen foreshadow.

 ~ Talisker 10. This is why inexperienced drinkers hate Scotch. It tastes like a band aid. No other flavor elements can survive the iodine onslaught.

 ~ Talisker DE. Approx. a year additional in an amoroso sherry cask, not typically a superior form of sherry. Dump it in a can of cherry coke, punch it with a squeeze of lime and call it a craft cocktail. Just don't serve it to me. Brown sugar icing on a band aid is a waste of panocha.

 ~ Lagavulin 16. A scabby band aid with the flavor of iodine AND hydrogen peroxide.
How lovely White Horse, that once common now near extinct bargain blend, could be primarily predicated on this abomination is beyond my ken.

~ Lagavulin 12 cask strength 56.5% abv. There is a limit beyond which horror cannot be compounded. From my excessive experience, I've drawn a line for purchasing below 50% abv, but I rarely water the very best tasting liquor. I was eager to make an exception in this case, but band aid flavor will not be denied, let alone enhanced, by mere dilution.

As for the stalwart 7G crew, kudos & thanks are not adequate expression of my effusive delight in being the beneficiary of your stupendous ground breaking effort in establishing a dedicated facility for investigation of spirits. You already had three local competitors in your niche market, but not one, as far as I know, has shown similar respect for their clientele by offering a regular & frequent opportunity like your Tasting Society. For all my judgmental severity re product & producers, I beseech you not to banish me from your hallowed congregation for my profane repudiation of the sacrament.

Allow me to suggest you guide guest presenters to the true path of righteousness & glory by independently including a ringer every meeting or other of an artisanal oddity as alternative benchmarks. In the same vein, I notice there is an unopened bottle of Edgefield in one of the wall display cases.

Thursday, August 9, 2012

Baja & Valle de Guadalupe notes

http://www.vinofrommexico.com/information/baja-wine-country
http://www.localwineevents.com/ticket_deals/detail/483739

maps
http://www.vinedosmalagon.com/images/Vinedos-Malagon-Area-Map.jpg 
http://www.viajaydescubre.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/ruta-del-vino-mapa-1.jpg
http://www.hotelmesondelvino.com/fotos/mapa-hotel.jpg 
http://www.moon.com/files/map-images/baja_02_Valle-del-Guadalupe-and-the-Ruta-del-Vino.jpg
http://www.descubrebajacalifornia.com/2012/images/img/mapa-ruta-vino1.jpg
http://www.mexicomatters.net/images/more/wineroute.jpg

articles
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1KkPDPic3GkPvfPYWixy5qN4gfKrIeaUhHfVBf4qXCe8/edit
http://www.winesfrombaja.com/blog/
http://www.moon.com/destinations/baja-cabo/ensenada-el-rosario/valle-de-guadalupe/ruta-del-vino
http://www.bajatimes.com/bajawine.asp
http://mexidata.info/id3017.html
http://www.mexicoaboomersguide.com/Travel_Valle_de_Guadalupe.html 
http://www.intowine.com/mexico%E2%80%99s-wine-guadalupe-valley-0
 http://www.mexicomatters.net/travelinginmexico/07_valledeguadalupe_ensenadamexicowinecountry.php

vintner list
http://www.discoverbajacalifornia.com/wineyards-and-wineries.php
http://www.bajatimes.com/bajawine_list.asp
http://proturismoensenada.org.mx/EXPAGES/vinicolas.asp
http://expedicionmexico.net/ruta-del-vino/
http://www.descubrebajacalifornia.com/2012/index.php/antigua-ruta
http://www.discoverbajacalifornia.com/south-valleys.php
http://www.bajabound.com/images/content/winecountrymap.jpg


Tecate Vendima grape harvesthttp://www.discoverbajacalifornia.com/new.php?id=276
"Parque Encino in downtown area of Tecate, open at 11am & end 7pm free admission. Scenic train ride available for people coming from Tijuana, leaves Garcia Station in La Mesa de Tijuana at 10 am. buses meet them in Tecate to take them to the fair."
Local wineries

Cava Garcia 8.18.12
http://productoslacava.blogspot.com/
km 3 CF 3 (Tecate-Ensenda hwy)
SE corner @ CF 20 crossing ?

120811 - four or five heavy reds, all very dry & initially flavorless, some moderate bloom on airing the CS/ME/SY/TE blend. Inky dark brown port & a muscat both tasting as if heavily sweetened with honey, but uniquely flavored hence these were the take home. Thanks to the ever gracious Choropera R., chauffeur & navigator. Petting zoo & pony rides for the kids; got to pet the emu. Mision del Sol for dinner - definitely the conejo platter.

Tanama
www.vinostanama.com.mx
km 7.5 CF 3

33 Encinos

Viñedos Don Juan, Vinicola Suenos
vinedosdonjuan.com
y Vinos Granadia
km 28 CF 3
Valle de las Palmas

Cava Los Nietos de Doña Inés
(Rancho Los Chabacanos)
http://www.rancholoschabacanos.com/es/home.php
Km. 118, CF 2 Carretera Libre Tecate-Mexicali

Vinicola L.A. Cetto
http://www.cettowines.com/ensenada-cava-wineries/ensenada-wine-winery-cellars-valle-guadalupe.html
Km. 73.5  CF 3
10am-4pm

Casa Pedro Domecq
http://www.domecq.com.mx/
km 73.5 CF 3 Francisco Zarco

La Casa de Doña Lupe
http://www.bajawine.info/2010/08/la-casa-de-dona-lupe/
N from CF3 past L.A. Cetto on right
Rancho La Gotita, Francisco Zarco 
same road leads to the Native community of San Antonio Necua
"much sweeter than most wines in Valle de Guadalupe"

Paralelo
http://paralelomexico.com/
Km. 73.5 CF 3 same exit as L.A. Cetto
  
Vinícola Lafarga
http://lafargavin.com.mx/
km 78 CF 3 then E 2.5km

Viñedos Malagón
http://www.vinedosmalagon.com
Calle Sexta #75m, Francisco Zarco

Vinícola Tintos del Norte 32
http://www.norte32.com/
Calle 10 s /n Francisco Zarco

Monte Xanic
http://www.montexanic.com.mx
NW of Francisco Zarco

Vinos Fuentes
http://www.bajabound.com/destinations/bajawinecountry/fuentes.php
Calle principal #290
Km 1.25 Highway Francisco Zarco-El Tigre
port

Chateau Camou
http://www.chateau-camou.com.mx/images/mapafull.jpg
north from road west off CF 3 @ Francisco Zarco
Take main road and turn right at Health Center (IMSS Centro de Salud) and right again at the end of Adobe Guadalupe’s vineyards. You’ll see the winery on top of the hill on your left

Adobe Guadaloupe
http://www.adobeguadalupe.com/en/
west from CF3 south of Francisco Zarco
Col. Rusa de Guadalupe, Valle de Guadalupe
first harvest 2004

Viñedos Santa Ursula
http://www.vinosantaursula.com
Salida a San José de la Zorra
N of El Porvenir

Barón Balché
http://www.baronbalche.com/
Ejido El Porvenir

Villa Montefiori
http://www.villamontefiori.com.mx/
 Ejido El Porvenir

Emeve
http://www.bajabound.com/destinations/bajawinecountry/emeve.php
Road to San José de la Zorra, Ejido El Porvenir

Torres Allegre
http://vinicolatorresalegreyfamilia.com/

Vinos Shimul
http://www.shimul.net
Ejido El Porvenir

JC Bravo
http://www.bajabound.com/destinations/bajawinecountry/jcbravo.php
Emiliano Zapata #680, El Porvenir
Palomino, Carignan

Las Nubes
http://www.vinoslasnubesbc.com/
mile west of El Porvenir

Quinta Monasterio 
http://www.bajabound.com/destinations/bajawinecountry/quintamonasterio.php
From CF 3 take Main St toward Ejido del Porvenir, turn right at social security clinic until reach  m

Rancho Sol Y Barro
http://www.bajabound.com/destinations/bajawinecountry/solybarro.php
km 87 CF 3

Hotel Meson del Vino
http://www.hotelmesondelvino.com/
km 88 CF 3
west from El Porvenir

Mogor Badán
http://www.bajabound.com/destinations/bajawinecountry/mogorbadan.php
km 86.5 CF 3 SE El Mogor
Chasselas

Tres Mujeres
http://www.bajabound.com/destinations/bajawinecountry/tresmujeres.php
km 87 CF 3
Mision & Rosa del Peru

La Villa de Valle, Vena Cava
http://www.lavilladelvalle.com/en/brisas-del-valle-directions.html
km 88 CF 3 salida Rancho Sicomoro west

Bibayoff
http://www.bajatimes.com/bajawine_bibayoff.asp
From San Antonio de las Minas take back road
west from km 92 CF 3 at “El Tigre

Alximia
http://alximia.com/
Camino vecinal al tigre Km.3 (enseguida rancho El Parral


Martín del Campo
C. Mina La Fortuna No. 1 Fracc. La Fortuna, San Antonio de las Minas
2 km NE of Vinisterra within the town

Viñas Pijoan
http://www.bajabound.com/destinations/bajawinecountry/pijoan.php
Km. 12.8 Highway Francisco Zarco-El Tigre

Xecue
http://www.bajabound.com/destinations/bajawinecountry/xecue.php
km 89.1 CF 3

Viña de Liceaga
http://www.vinosliceaga.com/
km 93 CF 3
north of San Antonio de las Minas

asa de Piedra
http://winesfrombaja.com/casa-de-piedra
km 93.5 CF 3
San Antonio de las Minas

La Casa Vieja
http://www.lacasaviejabaja.com/
km 93.5 CF 3
San Antonio de las Minas

Viñedos Zapien
Rancho la Llave San Antonio de las Minas

Hacienda La Lomita
http://www.haciendalalomita.com.mx
Comunidad de San Marcos
Fraccionamiento 13

past San Antonio de las Minas
From CF 3 take El Tigre road, follow signs to winery W of S.A. De Las Minas

Vinisterra
http://www.vinisterra.com/
km 94 CF 3
Vallarta #466 Poblado de Villa de Juarez,
SE of San Antonio de las Minas
http://www.vinisterra.com/imagenes/mapaVisitas.jpg

Vinícola Tres Valles
San Antonio de las Minas
Off Highway #3 at the only paved entrance to the town of San Antonio de las Minas. Turn left one block at the end of the street and then one block right


Bodegas de Santo Tomas
http://www.santo-tomas.com/
Miramar 666 Zona Centro Ensenada
between 6a & 7
oldest winery in Mexico

Casa Valmar
http://www.vinosvalmar.com/
Av. Riveroll # 1950 corner Ambar St Ensenada

Vinícola Pedraza
http://www.discoverbajacalifornia.com/wineyards-and-wineries.php
Calle Colón #820, Col. Bustamante

Roganto
http://www.roganto.com/
Km. 114 Transpeninsular highway s / El Cipres, Ensenada
four locations: Valle de Guad., San Vicente, Ojos Negros, Ensenada

Bodegas y Viñedos San Rafael
http://www.bodegassanrafael.com/
Km 39.5 Ensenada-San Felipe Hwy, Ojos Negros Valley

La Cava de Marcelo - La Cava de Los Quesos
Road to Ojos Negros, turn left on Km 43.5 Ejido Real Del

Cava del Moro
CF 1 past km 70
Rancho San Antonio, Valle de San Vicente.

Viñedos Palafox
http://www.aldopalafox.com/
Transpeninsular Highway south bound, when you reach the Km42 in Ejido Uruapan take paved road exit on your left. Follow approximately 500 meters and then right at the first corner on the dirt road

Vinícola Rincón de Guadalupe
Transpeninsular highway Km.105+700 mts., San Vicente

Vinícola Rubasuvi
Transpeninsular Highway Km 41.5 Valley of Ejido Uruapan

Vinícola Santo Domingo
 Rancho Santo Domingo Km. 41.8, Ejido Uruapan

Viñedos Villarino
Trans peninsular Highway Km 50.5 Valley of Santo Tomas

http://www.gbsan.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=1000:la-puerta-norte-de-la-ruta-del-vino&catid=18:get-to-know&Itemid=163

Vinos Ulloa

Rancho San Lorenzo

Rancho Tecate Resort. 

http://www.tecatebcmx.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=286&Itemid=176&lang=en

= = =
http://expedicionmexico.net/ruta-del-vino/

las Ciudades de Tijuana, Tecate, Mexicali y Ensenada se encuentran 8 valles que conforman la Ruta del Vino Mexicano, en ellos localizamos más de 50 vinícolas, algunas de ellas ancestrales, con más de 100 años de existir.
 alles y sus respectivas compañías vinícolas (de norte a sur):
I Valle de las Palmas (municipio de Tecate):
1. Vinos Tanamá
2. Cava de Don Juan
3. Vinícola Don Juan y Vinos Sueños
II Valle de Guadalupe (municipio de Ensenada):
4. Adobe Guadalupe
5. Barón Balch’e
6. Casa Bibayoff
7. Casa Pedro Domecq (a)
8. Chateau Camou
9. Vinícola Torres Alegre y Familia
10. La Casa de Doña Lupe
12. L.A. Cetto (b)
13. Mogor Badán
14. Monte Xanic
15. Quinta Monasterio
16. Vinícola Lafarga
17. Vinos Shimul
18. Vinícola Tintos del Norte 32
19. Viñedos Santa Úrsula
20. Viñedos Malagón
21. Villas Montefiori
22. Vinícola Juan Carlos Bravo
23. Vinícola Emeve
24. Vinícola Paralelo
25. Vinícola Tres Mujeres
26. Vinos Fuertes
27. Vinos de Santana
28. Viñedos Alborada
III Valle de San Antonio de las Minas (municipio de Ensenada)
29. Casa de Piedra
30. Bodegas Santo Tomás (c)
31. Vinos Pijoan
32. Hacienda La Lomita
33. Vinisterra
34. Martín del Campo
35. Viña de Liceaga
36. Vinícola Tres Valles
37. Viñedos Zapién y Vinícola Gabriela Medina
38. Xecue
En la Ciudad de Ensenada también hay importante vinícolas:
39. Cavas Valmar
40. Vides y Vinos Californianos
41. Vinícola Pedraza
42. Vinos y Terruños
43. Vinícola Navegante
30. Bodegas Santo Tomás y Rancho San Antonio (c)
44. Vinos Mediterráneos (d)
45. Roganto
IV Valle de Ojos Negros (municipio de Ensenada)
46. Bodegas y Viñedos San Rafael
V Valle de la Grulla (municipio de Ensenada)
47. Viñedos Palafox
48. Vinícola Rubasuvi
49. Manuel Delgado
50. Santo Domingo
VI Valle de Santo Tomás (municipio de Ensenada)
30. Bodegas de Santo Tomás (c)
51. Viñedos Villarino
VII Valle de San Vicente Ferrer (municipio de Ensenada)
52. Cavas del Moro
53. Rincón de Guadalupe
45. Vinos Mediterráneos (d)
VIII Valle de Llano Colorado (municipio de Ensenada)
7. Casa Pedro Domecq (a)
12. L.A. Cetto (b)

= = = =

Note: U.S. Customs and Border Protection will allow you to cross into the U.S. with only a liter of alcohol every 30 days

From Aug. 3-19, thousands assemble for annual grape harvest festival, Fiestas de la Vendimia, a series of fine dinners, wine tastings, workshops, performances and partying done from Ensenada all the way to the wine-growing region. For event schedule bajabound.com/events/vendimiaschedule.php

1½- to two-hour drive from San Diego. Cross the border at San Ysidro and follow signs for the Rosarito/Ensenada cuota (toll road). Just after passing through the third toll booth north of Ensenada, get on Highway 3 Tecate-Ensenada. Wineries begin around kilometer 93 and are marked with blue grape-icon signs or wooden signs reading “Ruta del Vino.” Downloadable maps are available from the event website

Event admission ranges from free to $200 per person per event, with most dinners hovering around $100 per person. Tickets to individual events may be purchased online and delivered via parcel service. See fiestasdelavendimia.com for full details, including hotel listings and maps.

Lodging: Advance booking is essential as the valley has only a handful of hotels, ranging from upscale B&Bs to more modest establishments. Fifteen minutes away by car, Ensenada has more hotel options but they also fill up quickly.

= = =

Gourmet restaurants in Mexico’s wine country Valle de Guadalupe to eat and drink. 7.18.12 http://www.utsandiego.com/news/2012/jul/18/gourmet-restaurants-unearth-mexicos-wine-country/

Minutes from the Ensenada coast, there’s a patch of peace and Mexican wine country called Valle de Guadalupe. Its wineries are spread out, camouflaged in a vine-studded, mountain-ringed valley. Restless food explorers like me (and Anthony Bourdain, and Andrew Zimmern) have trekked over red dirt roads to experience the Valle’s unhurried pace, to try its gourmet restaurants, and to report about the region’s unique mexicanidad—its Mexican character. For your own Baja California travelogue, consider these food-and-wine gems:

Corazón de Tierra
La Villa Del Valle hotel; 52-646-156-8030 or corazondetierra.com
Tipsy after tasting innovative wine blends at Las Nubes (52-646-176-8120) — one of about 50 wineries in the valley — I found a meal I’ve looked for my whole life. At Corazón de Tierra (Heart of the Land), chef Diego Hernández turns Mexican gastronomy into pure-tasting anthropology. Owned by Hernández and Phil and Eileen Gregory, the restaurant is eco-modern: The dining room is textured with reclaimed wood. Floor-to-ceiling windows look out on an artichoke-dense organic garden. And when I sat down to a $55 lunchtime tasting menu, all five courses cheered for the Mexican scene. From the delicate head cheese (a jellied pork terrine) to the oyster gratin with Swiss chard and bits of fried lamb, the ingredients came from the nearby ocean or surrounding land. Take that sumptuous salad with chicharrónes (deep-fried pork skin), turnip purée, sorrel, lardons and aged cheese from the valley’s Rancho Cortés: It glowed with civic pride. I’ll never forget the perfectly cooked yellowtail or its fine black crust of burnt garlic, onion and vegetable leaves turned into ash. “Ash is a very common preparation in Mexican gastronomy, especially in the Yucatán Peninsula,” Hernández explained. At Corazón, the plant cinders elevate the fish to something age-old yet surprising, like finding a family treasure undamaged after a fire.

Vena Cava winery
lavilladelvalle.com
Upturned boats serve as rooftops at the stunning Vena Cava (Wine Cave) winery, found on the same property as the boutique La Villa Del Valle hotel (52-646-156-8007) and Corazón de Tierra. There, British expat Phil Gregory makes 15,000 bottles of artisanal wines each year. The Sauvignon Blanc shimmers like liquid silver and tastes mildly of peaches. (I’ve happily discovered it stateside at North Park’s El Take It Easy.) “My lot in life is to help people drink wine,” Gregory said. He learned winemaking nearby at Estación de Oficios del Porvenir (52-646-175-0000), the school started by Bordeaux-trained oenologist Hugo D’Acosta, who’s credited with turning Valle de Guadalupe into a global vino-contender.


Almazara 52-664-648-1267
Miguel Angel Guerrero leads the “Baja-Med” culinary movement in Tijuana (see the chef’s celebrated La Querencia). His weekends-only grill is set among an olive grove and has roasted duck pizza and smoked ahi tuna tostadas.

Laja Restaurant
52-646-155-2556. lajarestaurante@gmail.com or facebook.com/restaurante.laja
An easy-to-miss orange sign on the Tecate-Ensenada Highway will point you to the gated Laja compound (folksy garden, outdoor oven, an adobe-and-stone building with hardwood floors). It’s certainly alta cocina, high cuisine, but executive chef-owner Jair Téllez’s restaurant isn’t pretentious. The inside feels like a refined country church. And two food pilgrims can have eight courses lavishly packed with garden-fresh vegetables for around $120. Because the hand-fashioned fare changes often, I can only hope the lamb ravioli with Swiss chard returns every time I visit — those finespun phyllo sheets are flavor-packed with umami richness. To pair, try a Moebius wine from Laja’s general manager/winemaker Andrés Blanco. Tell me, what goes better with flan ice cream and buñuelos (fried doughnuts) than a raisin-y muscatel?

Mogor Badán
52-646-177-1484; 52-646-156-8156. cavasdelmogor@hotmail.com or facebook.com/cavasdelmogor.mogorbadan
Make a Saturday sidetrack (11 a.m. to 1 p.m.) over to the small-scale winery started by the late Antonio Badán. Stroll through the rustic property, sample crisp Chasselas wine in the underground cellar, and don’t miss the modest farmers market. I picked up lettuce, asparagus and fresh-laid eggs here for lunch at chef Javier Plascencia’s private ranch. Plascencia, the chef of Tijuana’s Misión 19, is planning to open a small restaurant there. Expect his Finca Altozano to open this summer, just up the road from Laja.

= = =

Hit the road: Valle de Guadalupe
8.11.11 http://www.utsandiego.com/news/2011/aug/11/hit-road-valle-de-guadalupe/

David Bibayoff is drinking a crisp rosé and sitting in his sun-dappled garden, a grassy expanse that stretches out from his tasting room toward rows of grapevines beyond. The setting is idyllic: a trio of dogs snooze in the afternoon heat, purple mountains loom in the distance, and the utter quiet is interrupted only by the sound of children’s laughter emanating from the front yard.
Soon, this tranquil garden will be filled with some 500 revelers who will gather for a multicourse dinner featuring Bibayoff’s wines and cheese made at the ranch next door, while strains of live music waft through the August air. It’s a classic wine-country scene straight out of Napa or Bordeaux, only this one happens to be in ... Mexico?
“The ruta del vino, the wine country, is like an emblem for Baja,” said Bibayoff, a third-generation winemaker whose Russian grandparents, fleeing religious persecution, were among the first to make wine here in the Valle de Guadalupe northeast of Ensenada. Today, the region is home to about 50 wineries — from boutique operations to behemoths like L.A. Cetto — as well as the La Escuelita winemaking academy, founded by vini-auteur Hugo d’Acosta. Taken together, Baja California wineries produce the vast majority of Mexico’s wine.

Bibayoff is the president of ProVino, the winemakers association that mounts its annual Fiestas de la Vendimia, or harvest festival, over two weeks and three weekends in August.
“This is the most important festival in Mexico, because it involves wine, gastronomy, tourism, fish, ocean, everything,” he said between sips. “The people and the climate we have here, from my point of view, it’s one of the best.”
Now in its 21st year, the Vendimia draws an estimated 35,000 visitors annually. Hotels are booked for miles around, and some of the festival’s headline events, like the opening-night grand tasting and closing-night paella contest, sell out months in advance.
This verdant pocket of the Mexican economy appears not to be suffering too much from the disappearance of American tourists. Though participants remember years when the Vendimia attracted a fifty-fifty split of Mexicans and Californians, organizers estimate that 90 percent of this year’s attendees will be national visitors, as Baja California’s reputation as an epicurean center continues to spread among Mexico’s fashionable foodies. Today, medal-winning merlots from Monte Xanic and rosés from Viñas Pijoan grace the wine lists of trendy eateries in Mexico City, and local chefs like Jair Tellez of the restaurant Laja and Benito Molina of Manzanilla are culinary celebrities throughout the country.

“When I arrived 15 years ago, Ensenada was not known,” said Andres Blanco, who came here from Mexico City to study oceanography before taking a left turn into oenology. “Now it’s a place with a very high reputation about wine. I remember when the Vendimia parties would be like 70 people; now it’s thousands.”
This is the ninth year that Blanco has worked the Vendimia. He makes wine under the Moebius label and co-owns Laja, which will cook for four dinners during the festival in its signature farm-to-table style, using ingredients from the valley.
A separate luncheon held on Laja’s rustic outdoor picnic area will feature the debut of Blanco’s latest Moebius release, Vice Versa — a Mexican wine made, notably, with grapes grown on a small plot of land he owns in France. “We jokingly call it Reconquista (reverse colonization),” he said.
More than 40 events will take place over the festival’s 17 days. In addition to Bibayoff’s “Memories of Russia” dinner, which comes complete with a performance of Russian dance, other notable happenings include a concert by Latin Grammy-winning singer Ely Guerra accompanied by the Monte Xanic symphony orchestra, a cheese tasting with live blues music, a golf tournament, and dozens of wine dinners with entertainment ranging from tango to opera to jazz.
At boutique hotel Villa del Valle, owners Philip and Eileen Gregory will throw a party at their just-opened restaurant, Corazón de Tierra. Guests will dine on food prepared by visiting chef Enrique Olvera — whose Mexico City restaurant, Pujol, was recently named one of Restaurant magazine’s top 50 in the world — and drink Gregory’s own wine, Vena cava. There will also be a performance by the alternative circus Nomad Artz.
“I just love the parties,” said Philip Gregory, whose well-appointed inn has been sold out since last year’s festival. “Business is fairly brisk. We have had a distinct rise in Mexican tourism, which has picked up much of the slack we encountered when Americans stopped coming.”
Recently, however, there’s been a shift. The news about this place, often called the wine world’s best-kept secret, is out.
“This year seems different,” Blanco said. “We’re seeing more Americans around. The season of fear is ending.”