Thursday, August 9, 2012

Baja & Valle de Guadalupe notes

http://www.vinofrommexico.com/information/baja-wine-country
http://www.localwineevents.com/ticket_deals/detail/483739

maps
http://www.vinedosmalagon.com/images/Vinedos-Malagon-Area-Map.jpg 
http://www.viajaydescubre.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/ruta-del-vino-mapa-1.jpg
http://www.hotelmesondelvino.com/fotos/mapa-hotel.jpg 
http://www.moon.com/files/map-images/baja_02_Valle-del-Guadalupe-and-the-Ruta-del-Vino.jpg
http://www.descubrebajacalifornia.com/2012/images/img/mapa-ruta-vino1.jpg
http://www.mexicomatters.net/images/more/wineroute.jpg

articles
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1KkPDPic3GkPvfPYWixy5qN4gfKrIeaUhHfVBf4qXCe8/edit
http://www.winesfrombaja.com/blog/
http://www.moon.com/destinations/baja-cabo/ensenada-el-rosario/valle-de-guadalupe/ruta-del-vino
http://www.bajatimes.com/bajawine.asp
http://mexidata.info/id3017.html
http://www.mexicoaboomersguide.com/Travel_Valle_de_Guadalupe.html 
http://www.intowine.com/mexico%E2%80%99s-wine-guadalupe-valley-0
 http://www.mexicomatters.net/travelinginmexico/07_valledeguadalupe_ensenadamexicowinecountry.php

vintner list
http://www.discoverbajacalifornia.com/wineyards-and-wineries.php
http://www.bajatimes.com/bajawine_list.asp
http://proturismoensenada.org.mx/EXPAGES/vinicolas.asp
http://expedicionmexico.net/ruta-del-vino/
http://www.descubrebajacalifornia.com/2012/index.php/antigua-ruta
http://www.discoverbajacalifornia.com/south-valleys.php
http://www.bajabound.com/images/content/winecountrymap.jpg


Tecate Vendima grape harvesthttp://www.discoverbajacalifornia.com/new.php?id=276
"Parque Encino in downtown area of Tecate, open at 11am & end 7pm free admission. Scenic train ride available for people coming from Tijuana, leaves Garcia Station in La Mesa de Tijuana at 10 am. buses meet them in Tecate to take them to the fair."
Local wineries

Cava Garcia 8.18.12
http://productoslacava.blogspot.com/
km 3 CF 3 (Tecate-Ensenda hwy)
SE corner @ CF 20 crossing ?

120811 - four or five heavy reds, all very dry & initially flavorless, some moderate bloom on airing the CS/ME/SY/TE blend. Inky dark brown port & a muscat both tasting as if heavily sweetened with honey, but uniquely flavored hence these were the take home. Thanks to the ever gracious Choropera R., chauffeur & navigator. Petting zoo & pony rides for the kids; got to pet the emu. Mision del Sol for dinner - definitely the conejo platter.

Tanama
www.vinostanama.com.mx
km 7.5 CF 3

33 Encinos

Viñedos Don Juan, Vinicola Suenos
vinedosdonjuan.com
y Vinos Granadia
km 28 CF 3
Valle de las Palmas

Cava Los Nietos de Doña Inés
(Rancho Los Chabacanos)
http://www.rancholoschabacanos.com/es/home.php
Km. 118, CF 2 Carretera Libre Tecate-Mexicali

Vinicola L.A. Cetto
http://www.cettowines.com/ensenada-cava-wineries/ensenada-wine-winery-cellars-valle-guadalupe.html
Km. 73.5  CF 3
10am-4pm

Casa Pedro Domecq
http://www.domecq.com.mx/
km 73.5 CF 3 Francisco Zarco

La Casa de Doña Lupe
http://www.bajawine.info/2010/08/la-casa-de-dona-lupe/
N from CF3 past L.A. Cetto on right
Rancho La Gotita, Francisco Zarco 
same road leads to the Native community of San Antonio Necua
"much sweeter than most wines in Valle de Guadalupe"

Paralelo
http://paralelomexico.com/
Km. 73.5 CF 3 same exit as L.A. Cetto
  
Vinícola Lafarga
http://lafargavin.com.mx/
km 78 CF 3 then E 2.5km

Viñedos Malagón
http://www.vinedosmalagon.com
Calle Sexta #75m, Francisco Zarco

Vinícola Tintos del Norte 32
http://www.norte32.com/
Calle 10 s /n Francisco Zarco

Monte Xanic
http://www.montexanic.com.mx
NW of Francisco Zarco

Vinos Fuentes
http://www.bajabound.com/destinations/bajawinecountry/fuentes.php
Calle principal #290
Km 1.25 Highway Francisco Zarco-El Tigre
port

Chateau Camou
http://www.chateau-camou.com.mx/images/mapafull.jpg
north from road west off CF 3 @ Francisco Zarco
Take main road and turn right at Health Center (IMSS Centro de Salud) and right again at the end of Adobe Guadalupe’s vineyards. You’ll see the winery on top of the hill on your left

Adobe Guadaloupe
http://www.adobeguadalupe.com/en/
west from CF3 south of Francisco Zarco
Col. Rusa de Guadalupe, Valle de Guadalupe
first harvest 2004

Viñedos Santa Ursula
http://www.vinosantaursula.com
Salida a San José de la Zorra
N of El Porvenir

Barón Balché
http://www.baronbalche.com/
Ejido El Porvenir

Villa Montefiori
http://www.villamontefiori.com.mx/
 Ejido El Porvenir

Emeve
http://www.bajabound.com/destinations/bajawinecountry/emeve.php
Road to San José de la Zorra, Ejido El Porvenir

Torres Allegre
http://vinicolatorresalegreyfamilia.com/

Vinos Shimul
http://www.shimul.net
Ejido El Porvenir

JC Bravo
http://www.bajabound.com/destinations/bajawinecountry/jcbravo.php
Emiliano Zapata #680, El Porvenir
Palomino, Carignan

Las Nubes
http://www.vinoslasnubesbc.com/
mile west of El Porvenir

Quinta Monasterio 
http://www.bajabound.com/destinations/bajawinecountry/quintamonasterio.php
From CF 3 take Main St toward Ejido del Porvenir, turn right at social security clinic until reach  m

Rancho Sol Y Barro
http://www.bajabound.com/destinations/bajawinecountry/solybarro.php
km 87 CF 3

Hotel Meson del Vino
http://www.hotelmesondelvino.com/
km 88 CF 3
west from El Porvenir

Mogor Badán
http://www.bajabound.com/destinations/bajawinecountry/mogorbadan.php
km 86.5 CF 3 SE El Mogor
Chasselas

Tres Mujeres
http://www.bajabound.com/destinations/bajawinecountry/tresmujeres.php
km 87 CF 3
Mision & Rosa del Peru

La Villa de Valle, Vena Cava
http://www.lavilladelvalle.com/en/brisas-del-valle-directions.html
km 88 CF 3 salida Rancho Sicomoro west

Bibayoff
http://www.bajatimes.com/bajawine_bibayoff.asp
From San Antonio de las Minas take back road
west from km 92 CF 3 at “El Tigre

Alximia
http://alximia.com/
Camino vecinal al tigre Km.3 (enseguida rancho El Parral


Martín del Campo
C. Mina La Fortuna No. 1 Fracc. La Fortuna, San Antonio de las Minas
2 km NE of Vinisterra within the town

Viñas Pijoan
http://www.bajabound.com/destinations/bajawinecountry/pijoan.php
Km. 12.8 Highway Francisco Zarco-El Tigre

Xecue
http://www.bajabound.com/destinations/bajawinecountry/xecue.php
km 89.1 CF 3

Viña de Liceaga
http://www.vinosliceaga.com/
km 93 CF 3
north of San Antonio de las Minas

asa de Piedra
http://winesfrombaja.com/casa-de-piedra
km 93.5 CF 3
San Antonio de las Minas

La Casa Vieja
http://www.lacasaviejabaja.com/
km 93.5 CF 3
San Antonio de las Minas

Viñedos Zapien
Rancho la Llave San Antonio de las Minas

Hacienda La Lomita
http://www.haciendalalomita.com.mx
Comunidad de San Marcos
Fraccionamiento 13

past San Antonio de las Minas
From CF 3 take El Tigre road, follow signs to winery W of S.A. De Las Minas

Vinisterra
http://www.vinisterra.com/
km 94 CF 3
Vallarta #466 Poblado de Villa de Juarez,
SE of San Antonio de las Minas
http://www.vinisterra.com/imagenes/mapaVisitas.jpg

Vinícola Tres Valles
San Antonio de las Minas
Off Highway #3 at the only paved entrance to the town of San Antonio de las Minas. Turn left one block at the end of the street and then one block right


Bodegas de Santo Tomas
http://www.santo-tomas.com/
Miramar 666 Zona Centro Ensenada
between 6a & 7
oldest winery in Mexico

Casa Valmar
http://www.vinosvalmar.com/
Av. Riveroll # 1950 corner Ambar St Ensenada

Vinícola Pedraza
http://www.discoverbajacalifornia.com/wineyards-and-wineries.php
Calle Colón #820, Col. Bustamante

Roganto
http://www.roganto.com/
Km. 114 Transpeninsular highway s / El Cipres, Ensenada
four locations: Valle de Guad., San Vicente, Ojos Negros, Ensenada

Bodegas y Viñedos San Rafael
http://www.bodegassanrafael.com/
Km 39.5 Ensenada-San Felipe Hwy, Ojos Negros Valley

La Cava de Marcelo - La Cava de Los Quesos
Road to Ojos Negros, turn left on Km 43.5 Ejido Real Del

Cava del Moro
CF 1 past km 70
Rancho San Antonio, Valle de San Vicente.

Viñedos Palafox
http://www.aldopalafox.com/
Transpeninsular Highway south bound, when you reach the Km42 in Ejido Uruapan take paved road exit on your left. Follow approximately 500 meters and then right at the first corner on the dirt road

Vinícola Rincón de Guadalupe
Transpeninsular highway Km.105+700 mts., San Vicente

Vinícola Rubasuvi
Transpeninsular Highway Km 41.5 Valley of Ejido Uruapan

Vinícola Santo Domingo
 Rancho Santo Domingo Km. 41.8, Ejido Uruapan

Viñedos Villarino
Trans peninsular Highway Km 50.5 Valley of Santo Tomas

http://www.gbsan.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=1000:la-puerta-norte-de-la-ruta-del-vino&catid=18:get-to-know&Itemid=163

Vinos Ulloa

Rancho San Lorenzo

Rancho Tecate Resort. 

http://www.tecatebcmx.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=286&Itemid=176&lang=en

= = =
http://expedicionmexico.net/ruta-del-vino/

las Ciudades de Tijuana, Tecate, Mexicali y Ensenada se encuentran 8 valles que conforman la Ruta del Vino Mexicano, en ellos localizamos más de 50 vinícolas, algunas de ellas ancestrales, con más de 100 años de existir.
 alles y sus respectivas compañías vinícolas (de norte a sur):
I Valle de las Palmas (municipio de Tecate):
1. Vinos Tanamá
2. Cava de Don Juan
3. Vinícola Don Juan y Vinos Sueños
II Valle de Guadalupe (municipio de Ensenada):
4. Adobe Guadalupe
5. Barón Balch’e
6. Casa Bibayoff
7. Casa Pedro Domecq (a)
8. Chateau Camou
9. Vinícola Torres Alegre y Familia
10. La Casa de Doña Lupe
12. L.A. Cetto (b)
13. Mogor Badán
14. Monte Xanic
15. Quinta Monasterio
16. Vinícola Lafarga
17. Vinos Shimul
18. Vinícola Tintos del Norte 32
19. Viñedos Santa Úrsula
20. Viñedos Malagón
21. Villas Montefiori
22. Vinícola Juan Carlos Bravo
23. Vinícola Emeve
24. Vinícola Paralelo
25. Vinícola Tres Mujeres
26. Vinos Fuertes
27. Vinos de Santana
28. Viñedos Alborada
III Valle de San Antonio de las Minas (municipio de Ensenada)
29. Casa de Piedra
30. Bodegas Santo Tomás (c)
31. Vinos Pijoan
32. Hacienda La Lomita
33. Vinisterra
34. Martín del Campo
35. Viña de Liceaga
36. Vinícola Tres Valles
37. Viñedos Zapién y Vinícola Gabriela Medina
38. Xecue
En la Ciudad de Ensenada también hay importante vinícolas:
39. Cavas Valmar
40. Vides y Vinos Californianos
41. Vinícola Pedraza
42. Vinos y Terruños
43. Vinícola Navegante
30. Bodegas Santo Tomás y Rancho San Antonio (c)
44. Vinos Mediterráneos (d)
45. Roganto
IV Valle de Ojos Negros (municipio de Ensenada)
46. Bodegas y Viñedos San Rafael
V Valle de la Grulla (municipio de Ensenada)
47. Viñedos Palafox
48. Vinícola Rubasuvi
49. Manuel Delgado
50. Santo Domingo
VI Valle de Santo Tomás (municipio de Ensenada)
30. Bodegas de Santo Tomás (c)
51. Viñedos Villarino
VII Valle de San Vicente Ferrer (municipio de Ensenada)
52. Cavas del Moro
53. Rincón de Guadalupe
45. Vinos Mediterráneos (d)
VIII Valle de Llano Colorado (municipio de Ensenada)
7. Casa Pedro Domecq (a)
12. L.A. Cetto (b)

= = = =

Note: U.S. Customs and Border Protection will allow you to cross into the U.S. with only a liter of alcohol every 30 days

From Aug. 3-19, thousands assemble for annual grape harvest festival, Fiestas de la Vendimia, a series of fine dinners, wine tastings, workshops, performances and partying done from Ensenada all the way to the wine-growing region. For event schedule bajabound.com/events/vendimiaschedule.php

1½- to two-hour drive from San Diego. Cross the border at San Ysidro and follow signs for the Rosarito/Ensenada cuota (toll road). Just after passing through the third toll booth north of Ensenada, get on Highway 3 Tecate-Ensenada. Wineries begin around kilometer 93 and are marked with blue grape-icon signs or wooden signs reading “Ruta del Vino.” Downloadable maps are available from the event website

Event admission ranges from free to $200 per person per event, with most dinners hovering around $100 per person. Tickets to individual events may be purchased online and delivered via parcel service. See fiestasdelavendimia.com for full details, including hotel listings and maps.

Lodging: Advance booking is essential as the valley has only a handful of hotels, ranging from upscale B&Bs to more modest establishments. Fifteen minutes away by car, Ensenada has more hotel options but they also fill up quickly.

= = =

Gourmet restaurants in Mexico’s wine country Valle de Guadalupe to eat and drink. 7.18.12 http://www.utsandiego.com/news/2012/jul/18/gourmet-restaurants-unearth-mexicos-wine-country/

Minutes from the Ensenada coast, there’s a patch of peace and Mexican wine country called Valle de Guadalupe. Its wineries are spread out, camouflaged in a vine-studded, mountain-ringed valley. Restless food explorers like me (and Anthony Bourdain, and Andrew Zimmern) have trekked over red dirt roads to experience the Valle’s unhurried pace, to try its gourmet restaurants, and to report about the region’s unique mexicanidad—its Mexican character. For your own Baja California travelogue, consider these food-and-wine gems:

Corazón de Tierra
La Villa Del Valle hotel; 52-646-156-8030 or corazondetierra.com
Tipsy after tasting innovative wine blends at Las Nubes (52-646-176-8120) — one of about 50 wineries in the valley — I found a meal I’ve looked for my whole life. At Corazón de Tierra (Heart of the Land), chef Diego Hernández turns Mexican gastronomy into pure-tasting anthropology. Owned by Hernández and Phil and Eileen Gregory, the restaurant is eco-modern: The dining room is textured with reclaimed wood. Floor-to-ceiling windows look out on an artichoke-dense organic garden. And when I sat down to a $55 lunchtime tasting menu, all five courses cheered for the Mexican scene. From the delicate head cheese (a jellied pork terrine) to the oyster gratin with Swiss chard and bits of fried lamb, the ingredients came from the nearby ocean or surrounding land. Take that sumptuous salad with chicharrónes (deep-fried pork skin), turnip purée, sorrel, lardons and aged cheese from the valley’s Rancho Cortés: It glowed with civic pride. I’ll never forget the perfectly cooked yellowtail or its fine black crust of burnt garlic, onion and vegetable leaves turned into ash. “Ash is a very common preparation in Mexican gastronomy, especially in the Yucatán Peninsula,” Hernández explained. At Corazón, the plant cinders elevate the fish to something age-old yet surprising, like finding a family treasure undamaged after a fire.

Vena Cava winery
lavilladelvalle.com
Upturned boats serve as rooftops at the stunning Vena Cava (Wine Cave) winery, found on the same property as the boutique La Villa Del Valle hotel (52-646-156-8007) and Corazón de Tierra. There, British expat Phil Gregory makes 15,000 bottles of artisanal wines each year. The Sauvignon Blanc shimmers like liquid silver and tastes mildly of peaches. (I’ve happily discovered it stateside at North Park’s El Take It Easy.) “My lot in life is to help people drink wine,” Gregory said. He learned winemaking nearby at Estación de Oficios del Porvenir (52-646-175-0000), the school started by Bordeaux-trained oenologist Hugo D’Acosta, who’s credited with turning Valle de Guadalupe into a global vino-contender.


Almazara 52-664-648-1267
Miguel Angel Guerrero leads the “Baja-Med” culinary movement in Tijuana (see the chef’s celebrated La Querencia). His weekends-only grill is set among an olive grove and has roasted duck pizza and smoked ahi tuna tostadas.

Laja Restaurant
52-646-155-2556. lajarestaurante@gmail.com or facebook.com/restaurante.laja
An easy-to-miss orange sign on the Tecate-Ensenada Highway will point you to the gated Laja compound (folksy garden, outdoor oven, an adobe-and-stone building with hardwood floors). It’s certainly alta cocina, high cuisine, but executive chef-owner Jair Téllez’s restaurant isn’t pretentious. The inside feels like a refined country church. And two food pilgrims can have eight courses lavishly packed with garden-fresh vegetables for around $120. Because the hand-fashioned fare changes often, I can only hope the lamb ravioli with Swiss chard returns every time I visit — those finespun phyllo sheets are flavor-packed with umami richness. To pair, try a Moebius wine from Laja’s general manager/winemaker Andrés Blanco. Tell me, what goes better with flan ice cream and buñuelos (fried doughnuts) than a raisin-y muscatel?

Mogor Badán
52-646-177-1484; 52-646-156-8156. cavasdelmogor@hotmail.com or facebook.com/cavasdelmogor.mogorbadan
Make a Saturday sidetrack (11 a.m. to 1 p.m.) over to the small-scale winery started by the late Antonio Badán. Stroll through the rustic property, sample crisp Chasselas wine in the underground cellar, and don’t miss the modest farmers market. I picked up lettuce, asparagus and fresh-laid eggs here for lunch at chef Javier Plascencia’s private ranch. Plascencia, the chef of Tijuana’s Misión 19, is planning to open a small restaurant there. Expect his Finca Altozano to open this summer, just up the road from Laja.

= = =

Hit the road: Valle de Guadalupe
8.11.11 http://www.utsandiego.com/news/2011/aug/11/hit-road-valle-de-guadalupe/

David Bibayoff is drinking a crisp rosé and sitting in his sun-dappled garden, a grassy expanse that stretches out from his tasting room toward rows of grapevines beyond. The setting is idyllic: a trio of dogs snooze in the afternoon heat, purple mountains loom in the distance, and the utter quiet is interrupted only by the sound of children’s laughter emanating from the front yard.
Soon, this tranquil garden will be filled with some 500 revelers who will gather for a multicourse dinner featuring Bibayoff’s wines and cheese made at the ranch next door, while strains of live music waft through the August air. It’s a classic wine-country scene straight out of Napa or Bordeaux, only this one happens to be in ... Mexico?
“The ruta del vino, the wine country, is like an emblem for Baja,” said Bibayoff, a third-generation winemaker whose Russian grandparents, fleeing religious persecution, were among the first to make wine here in the Valle de Guadalupe northeast of Ensenada. Today, the region is home to about 50 wineries — from boutique operations to behemoths like L.A. Cetto — as well as the La Escuelita winemaking academy, founded by vini-auteur Hugo d’Acosta. Taken together, Baja California wineries produce the vast majority of Mexico’s wine.

Bibayoff is the president of ProVino, the winemakers association that mounts its annual Fiestas de la Vendimia, or harvest festival, over two weeks and three weekends in August.
“This is the most important festival in Mexico, because it involves wine, gastronomy, tourism, fish, ocean, everything,” he said between sips. “The people and the climate we have here, from my point of view, it’s one of the best.”
Now in its 21st year, the Vendimia draws an estimated 35,000 visitors annually. Hotels are booked for miles around, and some of the festival’s headline events, like the opening-night grand tasting and closing-night paella contest, sell out months in advance.
This verdant pocket of the Mexican economy appears not to be suffering too much from the disappearance of American tourists. Though participants remember years when the Vendimia attracted a fifty-fifty split of Mexicans and Californians, organizers estimate that 90 percent of this year’s attendees will be national visitors, as Baja California’s reputation as an epicurean center continues to spread among Mexico’s fashionable foodies. Today, medal-winning merlots from Monte Xanic and rosés from Viñas Pijoan grace the wine lists of trendy eateries in Mexico City, and local chefs like Jair Tellez of the restaurant Laja and Benito Molina of Manzanilla are culinary celebrities throughout the country.

“When I arrived 15 years ago, Ensenada was not known,” said Andres Blanco, who came here from Mexico City to study oceanography before taking a left turn into oenology. “Now it’s a place with a very high reputation about wine. I remember when the Vendimia parties would be like 70 people; now it’s thousands.”
This is the ninth year that Blanco has worked the Vendimia. He makes wine under the Moebius label and co-owns Laja, which will cook for four dinners during the festival in its signature farm-to-table style, using ingredients from the valley.
A separate luncheon held on Laja’s rustic outdoor picnic area will feature the debut of Blanco’s latest Moebius release, Vice Versa — a Mexican wine made, notably, with grapes grown on a small plot of land he owns in France. “We jokingly call it Reconquista (reverse colonization),” he said.
More than 40 events will take place over the festival’s 17 days. In addition to Bibayoff’s “Memories of Russia” dinner, which comes complete with a performance of Russian dance, other notable happenings include a concert by Latin Grammy-winning singer Ely Guerra accompanied by the Monte Xanic symphony orchestra, a cheese tasting with live blues music, a golf tournament, and dozens of wine dinners with entertainment ranging from tango to opera to jazz.
At boutique hotel Villa del Valle, owners Philip and Eileen Gregory will throw a party at their just-opened restaurant, Corazón de Tierra. Guests will dine on food prepared by visiting chef Enrique Olvera — whose Mexico City restaurant, Pujol, was recently named one of Restaurant magazine’s top 50 in the world — and drink Gregory’s own wine, Vena cava. There will also be a performance by the alternative circus Nomad Artz.
“I just love the parties,” said Philip Gregory, whose well-appointed inn has been sold out since last year’s festival. “Business is fairly brisk. We have had a distinct rise in Mexican tourism, which has picked up much of the slack we encountered when Americans stopped coming.”
Recently, however, there’s been a shift. The news about this place, often called the wine world’s best-kept secret, is out.
“This year seems different,” Blanco said. “We’re seeing more Americans around. The season of fear is ending.”

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